Friday, July 22, 2011

Italia

Warning: There is no apostrophe on this keyboard.  Which will drive someone like me crazy, but so is life.

I can now say Ive been to Italy.  This is my third country, oh wait, fourth country (including Monaco), and things are slightly starting to run together.  The cities have the same base, but with different flavorings.  And I think, Florences flavoring is the LEATher!!  Such a treat to walk through the two big main leater markets and see colors, stlyles, finishes, bags, and jackets.  It is all so pretty!  I felt elegant just walking through such pretty bags. This was by far the most expensive day of my trip, simply because everyone in my family asked for leather wallets and they are, by nature, expensive.  So far, gifts have been of the smallish variety, and for other people.  Today that changed.  I got a georgeous light brown leather laptop bag/school bag.

The market was slightly overwhelming, and I learned quickly how to say no (thinking slightly meaner thoughts).  The vendors will get in your face and start speaking the buying/selling English words they know.  Bargaining is easy.  All you have to do is hestitate for a couple of seconds and the price will come down.  Easy peasy.  They will offer you deals.  So I took them.

The gelato and ice cream continue to be delicious.  The next time someone asks me where Im going in Italy, I know my presponse:  A pizzeria.  Seriously.  No need to specify a city.  At least, that is how Im feeling now.  Ive been surrounded by old buildings, scooters, suit-clad men, small smart cars.  Is it horrible Im getting a little used to it??  I realized today that even though the city is ... clean... it is still a dirty place with car fumes and garbage.  Its only natural for a large industrial city.  So, for the next two days, Celine and I are heading for a country escape.  Tomorrow to Siena and Sunday for a bike cruise around the country side of Florence.  I amlooking forward to it.  Seeing the country side of France, the beaches of the Cote dAzure, and the mountains of Italy told me that I am an absolute sucker for natural wonders.


This is a short one. Was able to upload pics for Rome: https://picasaweb.google.com/103328083938812409241/RomeItaly?authuser=0&feat=directlink

Monday, July 18, 2011

Conversations

Conversations. 

There are four stages of adjusting to a new language. After 2 weeks in France, I've now gone through each phase.

The first is excitement. You're in a new city, and the language is very foreign to you.  It's everywhere you look and listen. You notice some places have English subtitles. You devote a lot of energy to trying piecemeal a translation with the grammar and vocab you learned back in middle/high school.  The longer the metro ride, the more time you have to decipher ads (the huge picture helps too).  You're very attentive  at the dinner table and to the people ordering right in front of you at the patisserie (can you get away with saying  'Le meme chois'?....'the same thing, please') 
Frustration. You realize you understand genres of conversation. There's the where are you from, what do you do topic. There's the family topic (textbook chapter 4 on family).  You pickup when convos are about you ( you hear your name or feel the glance at you.  Or, better yet, you hear 'Le American'). You get frustrated because beyond seeing the sights and eating the food, you want to know the people, ask them about their story, their life, their culture. And all you can say is, hello, how are you, or maybe 'where do you work'.   
Acceptance. After a while, you loose energy. Or interest. Long dinner conversations( it gets long very quickly when you aren't being engaged) become kind of a game of 'where's Waldo'. You can tune in and out, and play the game of trying to guess what is being talked about. You get momentarily excited when a word you recognize is said... But then realize that's about it. Several expressions / words that have been common on this trip so far:
D'accord: is their way of saying 'ok'
Doucement: means slowly. In my case, Usually paired with 'parler' (to speak)
Alors: a way to say 'so' or 'then', mostly a transition to fill a pause
Attention! ( in a French accent): means 'Watch out!'.  This word use is most concentrated to car rides, which very much warrant a cautionary action. The crazy driving is another story itself. I have videos for that.
Other common verbs: manger, Parler, traviller, regarder.
The last and final phase is Enjoyment. This is what I have reached tonight. Which is a good thing, because tomorrow we're headed to Italy and another language.  

I like long dinner conversations. The stories,  the laughing, the learning from parents and others, the trip planning (or everyday life plans planning), and the brainstorming. Dinnertime is a good time. And it was tonight, too.

 Genevieve is Celine's aunt. She's about 70, has white hair that she carefully grooms everyday, and wears glasses.  I have to work at consciously reminding myself she's not her grandmother. But, you get the idea of who she is. On two occasions, she's made us dinner. Yes, it's very good, and I think a good representation of the traditional French dinner. Red wine to drink, fresh baguette, meat, cheese, some  vege dish for the main corse, and fruit for dessert, ended with a cup of herb tea. I am very thankful that she is so gracious towards me.  I'm a guest in her house spending several days and  having dinner and yet, before tonight,  I haven't been able to hold a real conversation with her.  You know people in the hospital who are in a coma, who you feed and take care of but can't communicate with them? This image flashes through my mind a couple of times. And yeah it's probably extreme, but there were some points when I felt pretty useless just chilling at the table observing the engaging conversation going on between the others. She's has washed my clothes ( my silk shirt by hand even) and has prepared my bed and cooked me breakfast and dinner. She's made a perfect stranger ( besides being Celine's friend) feel right at home.


The enjoyment comes when I realize I can watch the conversation. Instead of listening to what they are saying, I  look at how they are saying it.  Over the past two weeks, I've had the great fortune to be exposed to many different settings. Dinner conversations at home, a convo with warm loving grandparents, a restaurant visit with a seldom seen but fun loving cousin of Celine's, talking with a best friend while sleeping over at her house for the night, packing and planning prep with Celine's mom, navigating new streets in the smartcar, drinking and rooting for a country's soccer team(USA world cup final) in a pub... On and on and many more. And it dawns on me. Like de'javu. That I've had all these conversations myself, but in English.  It makes the language way less 'foreign' and distant. This realization is how Genevieve and I can hold a conversation tonight in two different languages. Weird, I know, but trust me (granted, we're not talking politics or rocket science). We can relate, and use the few common words we know in eachothers language to send messages. It feels like we are living and being at the same time. And that, is pretty darn cool.   It's what makes me go back downstairs to the company after freshening up in my room, or makes me want to hang out in the kitchen  after the dinnertable  has been cleared.  For instance, tonight, Genevieve's toaster had stopped working.  She, Celine, and I were all hanging out in the kitchen. G shows us animatedly how something went wrong and what  she tried to do to fix it. Celine fiddles with it a minute and then G calls her husband in the room. He tries something and wo-la! Fixed.  We all are excited and happy it's better and that it was such a simple fix.   I know countless times that has happened to me and my dad.    With Celine, Genevieve, her husband, and me, we're experiencing  life together and that shared time is so precious.   In some ways, when living life, we all say the same things, whatever language it may be spoken in. 

I now have an appreciation for learning a language in the country it's spoken. Live, experience life there, and you will catch on really quickly. 

Italy, are you ready for Celine and I? :)

Saturday, July 16, 2011

We are not in Western France anymore

Hello from the beach!! We are in Cagnes-Sur-Mer, France. Getting here has been a full dose of traveling: over the past two days, a total of 7 different trains, 2 bus rides, and a car ride with Celine's great aunt and uncle, and oh boy has it all been worth it!!! So worth it in the people we've met and things we've seen. Stopped in Avignon yesterday. There is a world famous film festival going on in this very creative vibe filled city and therefore street performances are everywhere you turn and every street you wander down(no mater how narrow or cobblestone bumpy :) The dancers were some of the most impressive to me because you can feel their vibe through body movements full of looseness and freedom. You see their intense focus but supreme contentment on their faces.

Manosque is several bus and train rides later. After the 40 minute walk through the city to a friends house, I feel fully justified to say I have backpacked through Europe. Matild is a fellow classmate of Celine in Lyon and is a joy to chat with ( she knows anglais:) in the morning, we explore Aix-en-Provence together. It's Saturday morning and the outdoor markets are absolutely thriving! We find refuge from the crowds by lunching on 'salty' crepes from a to go stand and chill in shade in the city center with a front row view of a wonderful fountain/roundabout. Matilda says it is nothing compared to those in Roma. Mmm, I'm going to be in for a treat :-)). An absolute highlight amoung the shop browsing is an English bookstore Matild knows of. I get a Bill Bryson book. And, perfect timing that an author stops in at te shop to market his new book. Thrilled, I strike up a convo and learn more about him. He makes a living on writing, went to journalism school, and gives me a well seasoned take on where the writing market stands today. ( sadly but realistically, not profitable for almost all). I get 'both' of his names :) and will research more later.

We meet Christy and Lucila on a train to Nice. I feel instant connection, they know English, are engineering students, and study in Hong Kong. I'm glad we have an hour and a half ride till our stop. Taking advantage of our new 4-some, I successfully teach them to play Spades. They pick it up really quickly, I might have to be careful :P and, best part is, we will all be inFlorence at the same time. Thank goodness for wifi and email, so we make plans to see them again in a couple of days!!:)

Thursday, July 14, 2011

Left Cheek, Then Right

I'm in Angouleme, France, otherwise known to me as Celine's hometown. We arrived Tuesday night via the TGV high speed train from Paris. On the trip, we were treated to georgeous views of French countryside and sunset. There does exist a landscape other than massive urban city development!

Celine's house is wonderful. I fall in love with the house's architecture, painting, furnishings, and gadgets. The bright colors on the solid stone walls sets the tone of vibrancy and also mimics the healthy lifestyle I've felt so far. The colors of the food in the kitchen are a rainbow themselves... and change with the season. When possible, the fruits and veges come from the local outdoor market 5 minutes away by bike. The market sells veges, fruits, fresh bread, meat (whole animals..), and seafood(whole seafood..). It is open every day but Mondays. I feel a closer connection to the food,knowing that most of it was grown locally and that the freshest food is at my fingertips.



Celine's house is fun. I soon discover several toys :-). Mix together the fact that Celine's dad is an electrical engineer, that Angouleme is a city built on a hill, and that biking is a comon mode of transportation, and you get noneother than an electric bike! What a fun thing to ride! This is the first time I've seen such a thing, and I immediately want to try it out.  I get the chance when we go to the market. You get on it like a regular bike, you pedal it like a regular bike, but the difference comes in a nice little boost after the first pedal. I had so much fun the first time I rode it. I was giggling in the wind all the way down the street. The sensation was like a kid getting a huge push on the swing, and feeling the wind on your face and the boost of acceleration. I'm think I should bring the trend to America.

The five passenger smart car is also fun. Small, but fast. Celine's dad utilizes the Mercedes engine to the max when he finds open road:) Both the car and the bike are evidence of an environmentally conscious culture. In the kitchen, I also find a compost bin next to the trash and recycling. Since almost all meals are freshly prepared with fruits and veges, this thing gets fed a lot. The washer in the laundry room is smaller than the tank of a washer we have at my house. Its capacity is at best half of the ones I'm used to in the States. It would hold maybe five plush towels. And there is no dryer machine. That comes in the form of sunshine, a clothes line, and a drying rack.  There is no central air conditioning in the house.  The weather is mild enough to get by with opening widows, closing shutters, and using blankets. 

Food and drink are obviously a big part of the French lifestyle. When I look at the days activities, I see a trip to the market in the morning, slicing and dicing of veges for lunch preparations, cooking lamb sausages over an open flame on the grill, homemade walnut and white cherry wines ( both of which have come from the walnut and white cherry trees in the back yard, picking fresh plums from a friend's plum tree, and siting around the kitchen table late into the night sipping on warm herbal tea and preparing the plums for preserves(basically, cutting the seeds out of the middle).

The weather yesterday cleared up in the afternoon(the air has been a bit more chilly than I expected and than is normal for this time of year). This allowed us to dine outside on the patio and have a wonderful dinner of eggplant , zucchini, and tomato casserole over fetichinni. I liked the white cherry wine better than the walnut. Although white cherries taste a bit sour themselves(?) , the wine is very sweet. At 11 pm (when it is sufficiently dark), we enjoy the fireworks show on the Charente River. July 14th is the French National holiday. After, we walk around downtown a bit and see several historic sites. No new construction goes on within the downtown area. Renovations of older buildings and facade washes provide facelifts to the old buildings.

Other subtle differences that interest me about the French lifestyle include the way the toilet flushes, the barometer on the wall by the back door, having to plug in the water hose to the pump, the working and actually used shutters, the typical fence and gate around the yard, and the lightswitches. And, of course, the kissing on the cheeks when greeting someone.. even for the first time.

Angouleme Pictures: https://picasaweb.google.com/103328083938812409241/AngoulemeFrance?authuser=0&feat=directlink

Sunday, July 10, 2011

Dinner In Paris

Warning in advance:  Celine's computer is French.   And, even though I change the language setting to English, the spell check is still in French.  So, there will be some hedious misspellings.  Please view these as hilarious as opposed to sad.  I'm a spell check dependent person, and I accept that.  So, warning duly given and on to the good stuff :-)

Today, Celine and I were walking around Paris.  Walking has become what we do best.  If ever there were a book written about us two, they would call it "Nous Marchons"  (aka:  "We Walk").  It's how we've seen both Paris and London.  We'll either walk from where we are and walk back a different way.  Or, for further out adventures, take the London Underground tube, the bus, or the Paris metro.  Today, we walked for 6 hours. Previous days, even longer.  Through rain, through crowds, down empty streets, past shops, past many pâtisseries, stopped at several :), have stopped for bathroom breaks when we see public toilets, filled up waterbottles, taken many (understatement) pictures, some videos (I think I will take more... some end up kinda funny), browsed flea markets, talked to other travelers, lived in hostels, etc.  While in Paris, we've made our home at Celine's Uncle's appartment.

So we find ourselves today at Notre Dame Cathedral.  A Sunday evening mass is going on but visitors are still allowed in.  The vastness of the cathedral, the bishop giving a service, and the organ playing make me feel in awe of where I am... like, how am I even allowed to stand here in my jeans and sandels and be a part of such a sacred ceremony?  The feeling is kinda disrupted by all these people around me snapping pictures and taking holding a video camera as they walk.   But whatever.  We realize we need to be accross town by 8 for dinner.  It's taken us since 2pm to get to Notre Dame.  It's 7:30 now.  Granted, there were many stops between when we left Pierre's flat and now, but we still have a lot of ground to cover.  Pierre's dinner is something no one wants to miss.  

After so much walking, Celine and I have settled in to a casual silence.  We take in the sights, and pepper our wanderings with chit chat here and there.  Celine pipes in to tell me  a little history, I pipe up when my stomach rumbles or I want to stop at a shoppe.  In London and Paris, Celine holds the map and navigates.  I watch for cars (look to the right in London!).  Today, we hustle home.  We have a fast pace.  We don't always stop at intersections or cross at crosswalks.  We're more bold when crossing before cars.


Pierre is Celine's uncle.  Right now, only Pierre and his daughter Matild are at home (his wife and other kids are already en vacances).  Pierre went to culinary school and worked in the States as an apprentice.  He is a wonderful cook and knows English.   Mm.  Good combo :)  I try to learn as much as I can from him.  Their appartment is small by American standards.  6 people, 3 bedrooms, 1 full bath, 1 shower room, and 1 toilet room.  A kitchen big enough for 1 cook, a livingroom, and a dining table.  Their living room has wi-fi, and right now I'm chillin on their sofa.  The wifi's the strongest in the living room, and doesn't pick up most other rooms in the flat.

Matild is 10 years old, and is taking English in school right now.  We are at about the same confidence level with eachother's language... that is, we both tend to end up having Celine translate for us :P  While her mother is gone, Matild helps her dad prepare dinner and set the table.  Same set up as the US.  Today for dinner, we had white wine with Raspberry flavored syrup.  It is bubbly, and I am quickly getting used to the taste (We've had wine or something stronger at every meal except breakfast).  


Salad is the first coarse in this dinner.  (It sometimes comes after melon or rice and veggies).  The dressing is light, and composed of vinegar, oil, and mustard.  My first dinner's salad had fresh French mozaralla balls.  Omg they were amazing.  I wish I could share that with you.  Anyways, the four of us share dinner together.  I am happy Pierre knows English.  While it's broken, we can still communicate with the help of Celine.  I think my always clean plate and smiles with 'mercis' and pats on my full belly send the right message.  The food always comes out in shifts, and consists of at least 3 or four coarses.  We go through an impressive amount of dishes in one meal.  This evening I counted at least 12 plates, 3 pieces of silverware per person, and 3 glasses per person.  Tonight, we had a tomato and cucumber juice that tasted better than V8.  The other glass is a water glass for either tap water or bottled sparkling water.  Everyone, even Matild, has a wine glass.  Today, after the salad, we have mushroom and cheese ravioli.  Then, chocolate and caramel eclaire's Celine and I brought back from a pâtisserie.  For previous dinners, we've had basil rice with sliced warm tomatoes, fresh cantelope, salad, and chocolate and pear pudding.  Today for lunch, we had beef and chicken filled fried dumplings, hazelnut potatoes (hazelnut b/c of their size, not taste), cooked carrots, and frozen lemon treats that resemble the frozen lemon desserts you get at six flags, but these are served in actual lemons! :)  And with every meal, there is fresh french bread from the bakery downstairs.



The view outside our flat is full of other's windows.  We all live in multi-story buildings close to eachother.  The windows and patio doors are cracked open.  As I hear sounds of laughter and quick-paced chatter of large groups, I am glad we are only 4.  Matild is a bit quite at the table.  Either she feels it's her positition at the table or she is shy around me, I don't know.  She is very helpful in clearing dishes and bringing new coarses to the table.  As the guest, I am always served first in everything.  It is a casual dinner, but there is clearly an order in which things go.  Celine and Pierre converse in French, and I interestedly listen and try to pick up phrases I know.  Usually, I can comprehend the topic of conversation.  Pierre initiates conversation in English to make me feel included, and we get as far as we can.  Celine will often help fill any gaps.  He is lighthearted and funny, and full of information about the city's history and sites.   

I am glad we have a home here, with warm showers and clean comfy beds.  The closest metro station is 4 minutes downstairs and down the street.  The company is wonderful and the atmosphere very laid back.  After several really hectic days of siteseeing and traveling and train catching, I finally feel like I'm on vacation.  Relaxed and soaking in the culture.  

Friday, July 8, 2011

First Impressions - New Pictures

Hello!  So glad I get a few minutes of communication with you guys back home.

First of all, Paris and London have been AMAZING.  What a culture hotspot.  Here's a couple things I want to remember to expand upon when I have more time:


1. A Family Dinner in Paris
2. Mopeds, Motorcycles, and Men in Suits... First Impressions of Paris
3. Seeing JK Rowling and the whole Harry Potter crew in person London for the Premier in London
4.  Scenes from the top level of the big red bus!
5. Car fire in Paris.  Makes life here feel more real.
6. How much I am in love with the FOOD!!  Cafes to supermarkets (do not imagine WalMart or Publix when I say supermarket, PLEASE.  That would be a hugemongous disgrace to the markets here.)
7.  Sleeping with 11 other people in the same room... Hostel life - the good and the dirty
8. Museums, Buckingham Palace, Big Ben, Harrods, and so much more :)


It is so interesting to see life here.  The people, the shops, the food, the work, the museums, etc. 
Know I'm safe and doing very well :) 
hlh

Link to London: https://picasaweb.google.com/hhill3615/LondonEngland?authuser=0&feat=directlink
Link to Paris: https://picasaweb.google.com/hhill3615/ParisFrance?authuser=0&feat=directlink

Tuesday, July 5, 2011

Europe Bound

Leaving for Paris tomorrow!   The last couple of days have been full of traveling already.

Friday saw me spending the last night with GL and packing.   I'll miss that amazing Lady forever!  Your stories and knowledge and company over the last 7 weeks have really rocked my world.   I've seen your passion to always continue discovering and learning.    I hope your 'window to the world' never gets dull :P   And, of course, to never let anything at all stop you from having an adventure of your own :)

Saturday was an 8 hr drive to Atlanta.  I got my fix of really awesome amazing fireworks at the Stone Mountain laser show.  What a sight!  They were debuting the new 3D - like imaging (way cool in addition to the traditional laser images).  Our luck continued with finding the perfect seats amongst the thousands of people there on the lawn in front of the 'rock'.  The weather was perfect, my favorite company around me, and some delicious fresh baked goods (w/extra protein ;P) from The Bakeshop.  Marilyn and L, the most interesting slumber party in a long while :P  (Creme!!!!)

Sunday I got to see Mom and Dad and Amanda!!!  And Bruce and Abby.  Our beagles apparently continue to be spoiled.  They now have a perch in the house and makes them feel like more of the fam.  Maybe one day I'll be home long enough to take my babe on a walk!  She is so patient.    We have a belated bday dinner of sorts at our mexican restaurant and then I start tearin' up my packing list.  So much to do, so little time!!  3 ounces of this, 8 pairs of this, 2 pairs of shoes, list of addresses, itunes playlists, goggles, camera and charger stuff, yadyy yadyy yadyy.... This morning, I am proud of what comes out of my packing chaos.  I've overtaken the upstairs foyer and you can hardly see the carpet.  I don't want to be generous with my pairs of shoes or +/- anything.  I want exactly what I need.  In the end, I have 13 lbs of gear in a 5 lb backpack = 18 lbs.  Max weight on flight from HK to ATL = 40 lbs for carry-on, leaving me @ 22 lbs capacity.  I'll take it!  I'm happy, too, with the packing strategy.  I think my many hours of playing Gameboy Tetras as a kid are starting to pay off :)  Clothes have been rolled and put in gallon ziploc baggies.  They fit like slender blocks down in my pack and keep their shape nicely.  This also lets me make sure the heaviest things are on the bottom of my bag.  Toiletries and liquids are in smaller bags.  My backpack is pulled tight, and screams compression, efficiency, and big European souvenir capacity :DDD

Monday night and ATL is raining.  Kind of fitting, as it makes me want to run inside.  After supper with friends, a little bit is spent finalizing inter-city flights and accommodations in China.  I'll leave the country tomorrow at peace that pretty much all of our reservations are in order, and that train tickets will be taken care of when reservations open at a week before departures.

I am excited!    I'm going to come back with a totally new perspective to consider and to view the world with.  With these new experiences ahead of me, I feel so much potential to learn and grow.   I have SUch such wonderful people around me.  Celine, Luke, and Lawrence, as well as all the family and friends we're staying with, I'm so grateful for your generosity and the opportunity to travel and adventure with you.

Relaxed due to our preparation, Relieved that everything has gone smoothly so far and that we're all healthy, and Ready for the Real adventure to begin :D

till my next post from a European computer (!!)
xoxo hlh

PS - If you want to follow:  Link to Europe Itinerary